Traveller Review: My 12-Day Hiking trip to Iceland

Last summer, I embarked on a 12-day hiking trip to Iceland, exploring some of the country’s most remote and breathtaking landscapes with Amarok Adventures.

The Hidden Trails of Iceland hiking trip took us on a 160 km journey through the Iceland Highlands lesser-known trails, far from the more popular tourist routes. Every day, the landscape would completely transform—one day, we were weaving through the multi-coloured mountains of Landmannalaugar, the next, we were navigating vibrant green moss-covered peaks or crossing vast black sand deserts. Over the 12 days, I felt fully immersed in a volcanic world straight out of my wildest dreams.

As someone who prefers to escape the crowds and get deep into the backcountry, this hiking trip to Iceland was my dream trip.

Having the right hiking gear is essential for a long-distance trek. Before I left for Iceland, MEC was my one-stop shop for all the hiking essentials I needed to prepare for Iceland’s unpredictable weather and rugged terrain.

Want a deep dive into my complete hiking gear list and packing tips? Check out my MEC gear review for the Hidden Trails of Iceland here.

Albert and Monica picked me and our group up at the BSI, Reykjavík’s Central Bus Station, in their rigged-up 4×4 vehicle—built for tackling Iceland’s off-road terrain. From there, we headed to a meeting spot near the Reykjavík waterfront for our initial trip debrief and to introduce ourselves to the rest of the group.

After some quick introductions, Albert and Monica launched into an extensive briefing about what to expect over the next 12 days. You could feel the anticipation bubbling through the group. Though the walls of shyness were still up, as we had all just met, it was clear we shared the same craving for adventure and that we’d work well together as a team.

After the briefing, we said goodbye to Monica, who would guide a different group two days behind us. We hopped back into the 4×4, and Albert drove us to our first accommodation on the south coast of Iceland.

Rumour had it that Brad Pitt and Flea, the guitarist from Red Hot Chili Peppers, were touring Iceland’s Ring Road on motorcycles, so we all kept our eyes peeled, hoping to spot the mega-celebrities somewhere along the highway.

After breakfast, we set out deep into the highlands, leaving the paved roads behind for the rest of the trip.
The drive had us all wide-eyed with excitement as we wound through vast plains, past towering volcanic peaks, and across rivers—each turn offering a new, mind-bending view. At the time, it felt like we were already immersed in the country’s most spectacular scenery. Little did we know that this drive would be nothing compared to what lay ahead in the coming days!

We started our 12 days of hiking in Landmannalaugar, a place famous for its vibrant, multi-coloured rhyolite mountains, geothermal activity, hot springs, and as the starting point of the renowned Laugavegur trail, which National Geographic once called one of the most beautiful hikes in the world.

We were lucky to have great weather for the first two days of the Hidden Trails, which allowed us to experience one of the region’s most breathtaking sights, Grænihryggur—the green ridge.
Its intense emerald colour and shape felt almost otherworldly, like a hidden jewel in the Landmannalaugar range. While I had seen many images of the stunning green hues from Amarok Adventures’ social media and website, I was completely perplexed once we were face-to-face with the dragon. The striking green hues come from the rapid cooling of volcanic rock and the high concentration of iron particles—something you rarely see so clearly in nature.
Each night during our stay in Landmannalaugar, we’d relax and recharge in the hot springs next to the hut. After a long day of hiking, soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters was the perfect way to unwind as we geared up for the next leg of our adventure.

We left Landmannalaugar in our 4×4 vehicle and made our way to Langisjór, one of Iceland’s largest and most beautiful lakes. This marked the last day we would have access to our support vehicle before we were fully immersed in the Iceland backcountry. Every day onward, we’d slowly make our way south, hiking back toward the rest of the world.

Lost in the heart of the Highlands, surrounded by glaciers and mountains, “the Long Sea” wasn’t discovered until the 19th century due to its remote location and challenging terrain. We spent the day hiking the Fögrufjöll Mountains, following hidden trails through the moss that led us to the mountain’s peak. From the summit, we could see the entire 20 km length of Langisjór, with small green islands dotting its surface. The views were epic, with Vatnajökull, Iceland’s largest glacier, dominating the horizon.

The hut at the base of Fögrufjöll became my favourite of the trip—our most remote and northern stop. Something about being so far from civilization gives me a profound sense of peace, a reprieve from the stress of everyday life. In places like this, nothing else matters except the clothes on your back, the people you’re with and the simple beauty of living the day in sync with the rise and fall of the sun.

After a warm, hearty breakfast, we set out from the comforts of our northernmost hut, following sheep trails along the banks of the mighty Skaftá River. The Skaftá is a massive black-ish river tainted with volcanic sediment that flows from the meltwater of the enormous Vatnajökull glacier to the north. The dark, brackish waters were ominous. I couldn’t shake the feeling that I was walking beside a river flowing straight from Mordor, carving the landscape with a violent rage. It was like nothing I’d ever seen before.

We veered off the river through the narrow Hvanngil Canyon for a lunch break at the base of a stunning three-peaked mountain. As the wind settled and the lake at the base of the mountain turned perfectly still, I realized just how lucky we were. There was no way in hell I would have found this magical place without Albert and Monica’s careful route planning.

After many, many more kilometers underfoot, we arrived at a hut surrounded by the most extraordinary volcanic pillars—like trolls frozen in time, remerging from the earth. The formations bubbled and twisted into bizarre shapes, hiding mythological creatures in their shadows.

We escaped the troll’s clutches surrounding our hut shortly after sunrise. After a short distance, we arrived at the edge of Eldgjá—the Fire Canyon—a massive volcanic fissure spanning 40 km long and 270 meters deep in places. This vast canyon, which from our vantage point appeared to split the Highlands in two, was formed after one of Iceland’s most violent eruptions around 934 AD.

A place of mythological proportions, Eldgjá is woven into European and Icelandic lore, its devastation so severe that locals believed the eruption marked the end of the world. Standing at the canyon’s edge, it’s easy to see why! I couldn’t help but imagine molten lava erupting violently into the sky, boiling from the Earth’s core—a scene straight from the dawn of land itself.

We descended deep into the canyon and spent the day hiking engulfed in its steep imposing walls. Once again, I was struck by the contrasting colours of the landscape—deep black basalt, vibrant green moss, and eroding iron rocks painting the canyon walls red. 

We stopped at the famous Ófærufoss waterfall for lunch, a stunning multi-tiered waterfall that cascades down into the canyon. We followed the flowing waters of Ófærufoss for a while before veering off onto secret sheep trails, eventually arriving at our hut for the night.

So far, we were blessed with decent weather for most of our 12-day trek through the Icelandic Highlands, but the weather on this day was by far the best. 

To prepare us for our longest day of the trek tomorrow, we only hiked around 6-7 km between huts through meandering trail networks along a beautiful river. Not only was the sun out, it was warm! We arrived at our hut along the shores of a secret lake with a fairytale-like waterfall, a straight shot across the lake from the hut. It was the perfect day to build deeper connections with the group as we sat around, played games, and shared stories and laughs, all while basking in the warmth of the Icelandic sun.

I had the idea to make myself a grilled cheese sandwich with the huts rustic cooking stove, and let me tell you—enjoying the greasy comfort foods of home, basking under an Arctic sun surrounded by amazing likeminded travellers really set the bar for the rest of the trip.

Rested, replenished, and full of grilled cheese, we set out on our longest day of the Hidden Trails trek. 
 
We spent the day walking through a valley flanked by two massive multi-kilometer-wide volcanic craters. While the volcanoes had been dormant for centuries, the scars of their violent past were still visible in the jagged rock formations and giant boulders throughout the valley. The land seemed to wear its fiery history on its sleeve, all while juxtaposed by a delicate Icelandic flower, Klófífa, that looked like balls of sheep’s wool had been scattered across the valley floor.

By day 8, we could feel the weather start to shift. We hadn’t encountered much more than cold winds, drizzle, and overcast skies until this day, but a new, ominous chill began to sink into our bones.

We left the long valley behind and descended into a lava field, where our hut awaited us, along with the mighty Maelifell volcano. This photogenic giant welcomed us along with a single beam of sunlight that poured over the black sand valley before being quickly swallowed by the  approaching storm—one that would keep Mælifell hidden for the rest of our stay in the region.

We woke up to wind and rain rattling the windows—our first real weather day of the trip. And what a day to face arctic winds, sideways rain, and freezing cold temperatures—the day we had to cross what Albert and Monica had coined the “Thousand River Valley.”

By this point, we were no strangers to glacier river crossings. Our team had a well-oiled system in place: shoes off, Crocs or sandals on, pants rolled up, one hiking pole tucked away, grab your river crossing buddy, and get ready for some serious pins and needles in your ankles!

But unlike all the previous river crossings of the trip, making our way across the Thousand River Valley was a very different beast. 

Spanning 2-3 kilometers, we crossed an alluvial fan that, thanks to the torrential rain, had split into a series of river networks, big and small, with icy glacial meltwater rushing through them. Just as we prepared for the first of a thousand crossing, a perfect rainbow arched across the stormy sky—one brief, stunning moment of beauty before we plunged into the freezing water.

After countless glacial crossings, our feet completely numb from the cold, and a growing sense of relief, we were finally rewarded with Iceland’s natural wonders—a wild hot spring in the middle of nowhere, all to ourselves.

We relished in the desperately needed soak until we had sensation back in all our fingers and toes. We still had a few more kilometers to cover before we reached the hut. This would also be our last day in total isolation, as we crossed paths with the famous Laugavegur Trail.

As we neared the final days of our trek, we entered one of the most desolate and surreal landscapes—the Black Sand Desert. The vastness of the land played tricks on our minds, making the journey feel both endless and painfully close. We could see the eventual end of the desert, yet no matter how much distance we covered, it often seemed as though we weren’t getting any closer to our destination.

A sense of nostalgia began to settle in—the familiar feelings that always sneak up on you at the end of a once-in-a-lifetime adventure…

“Will I ever return to this extraordinary place? Will I ever be so lucky to experience an adventure like this again? Will I ever see these people again?”

Crossing the black sand desert intensified these reflections, perhaps because the journey was nearing its end, or because the vastness of the landscape left me feeling humbled and awestruck.

The natural lighting really stood out as we crossed the desert. With the Mýrdalsjökull ice field just a few kilometers away, the sun reflecting off the ice and overcast skies above created a surreal light that illuminated the black volcanic sand and glacial meltwater sediment. The moss-covered mountains seemed to pop against the backdrop.

After what felt like an endless day through the black desert, we rounded the final hill of the hike to the most incredible sight—our hut for the night perched in the mountains with a spectacular view of Mýrdalsjökull glacier, scouring its way down from the heavens in the distance.

We were greeted with a mix of sun and overcast skies on our final hiking day of the trek. Leaving behind our remote mountain hut at the edge of the volcanic glacier, we descended deeper into the valley.

With each step on this last day, I soaked in the beauty around me—the kind of beauty that makes you feel like you’ve truly earned every moment of the journey. My mind replayed the countless highlights from the past days: the breathtaking landscapes, the camaraderie of the group, and the unforgettable experiences we’d shared together.

True to Icelandic form, every final kilometer toward the end continued to amaze.
We crossed our final glacier river and entered the only forest we’d encounter on the trek. Here, we experienced another dramatic shift in the microclimates that had defined our journey. The forest was filled with new flora—flowers, trees, mushrooms—things we hadn’t seen anywhere else in the highlands. Even the temperature changed, becoming noticeably warmer despite our proximity to the nearby glaciers.

Until there it was… our final hut of the trip. Our bodies were exhausted, our feet sore, but our hearts were full with a deep sense of accomplishment for completing the Hidden Trails of Iceland. 

We had covered around 160 km—traversing volcanic deserts, crossing glacier rivers, winding through deep valleys, and navigating rugged mountain passes—each step revealing a new side of Iceland’s wild beauty.

Now it was time to celebrate the journey, Icelandic-style—feasting on a lamb barbecue, raising our beers in a toast, and soaking in the beauty of this incredible country one last time.

In the morning, we left Thórsmörk behind in the 4×4 vehicle we started the journey in and returned to Reykjavík.

The overwhelming beauty of hiking in Iceland, so raw and untamed, stirred up emotions I hadn’t fully anticipated, making the journey feel much bigger than just the distance we had walked.

As my mind replayed the incredible encounters of the past 12 days, I felt a deep sense of gratitude settle in—gratitude for the strength of my body, for the privilege of being able to experience a place so wild and remote, for every challenge that made the journey feel truly earned, and for every shared moment with the group, now deeply woven into the fabric of our beings.

Iceland had given us something beyond words—an experience that would stay with us long after our boots left its trails.

A huge shoutout to our guide, Albert, whose deep knowledge of Iceland’s history, culture, and geology added so much depth to the experience. His professionalism, encouragement, and incredible cooking skills after long days of hiking made this trip even more special. 

Thanks to Albert and Monica’s thoughtful route planning, I was able to partake in one of the most immersive travel experiences hiking in Iceland, far away from the usual tourist spots. I couldn’t have asked for a better, more memorable journey.

For anyone seeking a more profound hiking experience in Iceland, you’ll want to check out Amarok Adventure’s Hidden Trails trek!